Sunday, August 3rd, 2008 01:02 pm
I like knots.

I was always terrible at them as a Cub Scout: in my pack, knotting was taught via a series of "rabbit goes out of the hole"-style mnemonics, which I could never remember or apply. I suspect this was one of the reasons why I never went further in the Scouting movement. However, a couple of years ago I picked up Geoffrey Budworth's excellent The Knot Book, which takes an entirely different tack. He dispenses with mnemonics in favour of clear diagrams and (where possible) a breakdown of the knot into simpler components. I think very visually, and learn best by connecting new ideas to things I already understand, so this approach works very well for me. Just as good is the organisation of the book: each knot is accompanied by a discussion of its pros and cons, and cross-references to related knots. Knots are largely collected together by function, allowing for easier comparison. For a couple of weeks, I spent most of my spare time tying knots in things, and festooning my flat with knotwork. I was particularly proud of the barrel sling arrangement for hanging a cup of tea off a doorknob.

When choosing knots, the two most interesting factors are usually
  • The breaking strain - knots (which are essentially twists and kinks in rope on which pressure is exerted unduly) all weaken the rope, often substantially. Different knots weaken the rope to different extents. This tendency is usually expressed as a percentage of the breaking strain of the unknotted rope - a simple overhand knot, for instance, has a breaking strain of 40%, which means that a rope with an overhand knot tied in it can be broken with 40% of the force that would usually be required. A reef knot (US: square knot) has a breaking strain of around 45%, whereas sheet bends and double fisherman's knots have breaking strains nearer 65% - this is one of the reasons why the reef knot is not recommended for joining two lines together.
  • The security - the tendency of the knot to come undone, particularly when subject to random, inconstant loads. Knots with the same breaking strain might have wildly different securities - for instance, the left-handed bowline is as strong as the right-handed version, but much less secure. Security's harder to measure than breaking strain, but UIAA bounce tests give some idea.
Different groups prioritise these differently - anglers, for instance, work with very thin line and comparatively high forces, so have evolved elaborate knots with breaking strains close to 100%, whereas climbers will often choose a more secure knot with substantially lower breaking strain - modern climbing rope has such absurdly high breaking strain that your rope, however knotted, will probably still be the strongest part of your belay or abseil (US: rappel) system. See this discussion of the best bend¹ for joining two abseil ropes together for some idea of the considerations used. Other factors come into play too, of course: climbers value knots which are visibly correct from some distance away, such as the Figure of Eight Loop, and sailors prefer knots that can be tied one-handed (so you can use your other hand to hang onto something). The nature of the rope to be used matters, too: many knots which were secure in hemp or gut had to be abandoned after the switch to synthetic ropes after the Second World War.

Budworth devotes specific chapters to discussing the knots used by three groups: sailors (of which he is one), anglers and climbers (including cavers). Which is all very interesting, but there's an important (and growing) group of rope-users he leaves out, namely BDSM enthusiasts. While I'm not interested in BDSM per se², I am interested in their approach to knotting: what, I wondered, are the criteria that they use for selecting the knots that they use? Which ones do they select? (And are BDSMers welcome at knotting conventions?)

I tried to work it out from first principles. A human being would be very unlikely to exert enough force to snap a modern rope, so breaking strain probably wouldn't be a consideration. Security, on the other hand, probably would. But there, I got stuck.

I was forgetting something, of course. Now we have an Internet, we don't need to wonder about things any more: we can simply go and find out. A quick search turned up this page, which answered many of my questions. Many of the usual suspects turned up: the reef knot, the lark's foot, the bowline, etc. No bends - I suppose BDSMniks have little occasion to join ropes together. I was rather surprised to see the Prusik knot (used by climbers to ascend a rope) - the author advocates using it as an adjustable loop. I'd have used a Tarbuck knot for that, but I suppose the Prusik is easier to check visually. I hadn't come across the French bowline before, but it turned out that that was the key to the mystery, for I had failed to spot the two key factors at play. When your hitching post is a human limb, it's vitally important to (a) minimise the pressure (force/area) on the skin - this means using lots of turns or loops to maximise the area of rope in contact, and (b) choose a knot that doesn't tighten under load, or you could constrict blood vessels. The lashings (knots used to hold two struts, or in this case, limbs, together) used follow a similar pattern - many loops of rope where only a couple would usually do. I imagine this improves the security of the lashing, too.

Googling for "bondage site:igkt.net" suggests that the International Guild of Knot Tyers (whose Vice President, mathematicians may be interested to learn, is the Fields Medallist and famous knot theorist Vaughan Jones) is well aware of the use of knots in bondage, but somewhat divided about whether or not to discuss bondage ropework on their main forum :-) It also appears that the analysis of breaking strain above is too simplistic - the precise geometry of each instance of a knot matters too.

1 A bend is a knot used for joining two ropes together. A hitch is a knot used for attaching a rope to a solid point. Annoyingly, the Fisherman's Knot is a bend, and the Fisherman's Bend is actually a hitch.
2 Though judging from my friends page, quite a few of you are: perhaps you'd care to comment? This is a public post, but feel free to comment anonymously if you'd rather.
Sunday, August 3rd, 2008 04:13 pm (UTC)
I'd guess that when introducing people to the world of Bondage having a knot which can be quickly undone would be useful, lest they feel constricted and want to 'escape'.
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:52 am (UTC)
It seems like you're right, though keeping scissors handy may be an alternative.
Sunday, August 3rd, 2008 06:03 pm (UTC)
safety first with knots here. next consideration is ease of use and third is probably prettiness...
Sunday, August 3rd, 2008 08:05 pm (UTC)
But what do you do to ensure safety? Do you mean the "lots of turns, no tightening loops" stuff I was talking about above, or is there more to it?
Sunday, August 3rd, 2008 10:49 pm (UTC)
pretty much that - i make sure it won't tighten when pulled, and that you can easily get a finger between the skin and the rope. quick to undo isn't really an issue as i always keep safety scissors (the ones paramedics use) handy.
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:37 am (UTC)
Interesting (and I note that [livejournal.com profile] bronxelf_ag001 disagrees, btw). Cutting the rope's pretty much a last resort (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Touching_the_Void) for climbers, AIUI.
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:45 am (UTC)
climbing ropes are probably a bit more expensive and also more valuable (if you're still on a mountain and need it to get down, i guess you don't want to cut it unless you absolutely have to!), whereas if i've tied someone up, when we finish i tend to untie things slowly and tenderly. and if there's an emergency (fire alarm goes off, etc), i'd prefer just to cut the ropes and buy some more than to potentially spend time struggling with knots and putting us both at risk.
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:49 am (UTC)
climbing ropes are probably a bit more expensive and also more valuable (if you're still on a mountain and need it to get down, i guess you don't want to cut it unless you absolutely have to!)

Yes, exactly :-)

if there's an emergency (fire alarm goes off, etc), i'd prefer just to cut the ropes and buy some more than to potentially spend time struggling with knots and putting us both at risk.

Makes sense :-) What kind of rope do you use?
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:51 am (UTC)
cheap from B&Q! it serves the purpose :)
Monday, August 4th, 2008 10:02 am (UTC)
This stuff (http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9372003&fh_view_size=6&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=polypropylene+rope&fh_eds=ß&fh_refview=search&ts=1217843945731&isSearch=true)? Yeah, I can see why you wouldn't worry too much about cutting that... climbing rope generally runs to around £1.50 per metre, depending on thickness and stretch.
Sunday, August 3rd, 2008 10:12 pm (UTC)
Rope related injuries are amongst the most common in the BDSM community. Rope burns, bruising, people being improperly or unsafely suspended, people blacking out from loss of oxygen or other problems due to lack of circulation.

It would actually be a lot *safer* if people would learn more about knotwork before they got into bondage work.

Oh and to answer your actual question, generally the rule is supposed to be safety first. It needs to be a knot that someone can *undo* in a hurry, if necessary.
Edited 2008-08-03 10:14 pm (UTC)
Monday, August 4th, 2008 10:07 am (UTC)
Rope burns, bruising, people being improperly or unsafely suspended, people blacking out from loss of oxygen or other problems due to lack of circulation.

Ouch! How common are injuries, roughly?

Oh and to answer your actual question, generally the rule is supposed to be safety first. It needs to be a knot that someone can *undo* in a hurry, if necessary.

Thanks!
Sunday, August 3rd, 2008 11:46 pm (UTC)
I don't have any personal experience, but from what I've read from the experts: it varies. Some rope bondage is pretty much ornamental, whereas for something like suspension bondage security is of course essential. I can link you to the tutorials and explanations I've read if you're interested.
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:50 am (UTC)
Yes, please, that would be interesting.

Suspension bondage, in particular, sounds like something best approached very cautiously...
Monday, August 4th, 2008 04:12 pm (UTC)
http://twistedmonk.blogspot.com/ this guy makes and sells hemp rope. Don't use the search function there, google is better.
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=twistedmonkcom&p=r his video tutorials and some demos (everything from face bondage to suspending a motorbike)

Some nice tutorials here too. I can't stand the guy in general, for reasons not that obvious from his journal, but the resources are decent. There are however few to no knots involved!
Monday, August 4th, 2008 04:20 pm (UTC)
You'll see them all mentioning to always have safety scissors around, to make sure you're not cutting off circulation, etc. I've not seen any detailed explanations of how to do safe suspension bondage online, I suspect it's more of an in-person workshop thing.
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:08 am (UTC)
(And are BDSMers welcome at knotting conventions?)
What kind of people are knotters generally? I can imagine quite a few being relatively traditional, conservative types (who perhaps got into knotting through their jobs, as fishermen, or something) -- is this wildly inaccurate?
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:31 am (UTC)
I have no idea, but it wouldn't surprise me :-)
Monday, August 4th, 2008 10:53 am (UTC)
Of course, there's nothing stopping sailors or fishermen from being into bondage :-)
Monday, August 4th, 2008 03:42 pm (UTC)
Why is a left-handed bowline less secure than a right-handed one?
Monday, August 4th, 2008 08:13 pm (UTC)
Because of Science :-)

Seriously, buggered if I know, but this is apparently what experiments indicate. They're two different knots, btw, not just mirror images of each other. In the right-handed version, the working end (the "rabbit") goes around the back of the standing end (the "tree") and ends up hanging down into the loop, and in the left-handed version it goes around the front of the standing end and ends up sticking out to the side. I tried to knock up some sketches to show the difference, but can't get them to display properly :-(
Monday, August 4th, 2008 08:23 pm (UTC)
Oh, okay. I thought you meant mirror images, in which case I'd be *really* confused.
Monday, August 4th, 2008 09:56 pm (UTC)
It might make a very slight difference in cable-laid (twisted, and thus chiral) rope, but yeah, I think simply reflecting a bowline doesn't significantly affect either its strength or security :-)
Wednesday, August 6th, 2008 10:30 pm (UTC)
I like your use of terminology.

My list is probably safety first, then comfort, speed, security, and finally prettiness. Breaking strain *really* doesn't matter as people will damage before rope. They're squidgy like that.

Safety is covered by rope & knots with a good bite that will grip to itself. 4 or 5 round turns before a cinch & then a reef is enough to stop tightening and is pretty comfy, but takes a good while to tie.

My favourite for a while has been the larks foot for sheer speed. Twist, hand through, tighten, and a secured partner! Not one for strugglers as it's thin, but easy to get in and out of.

The rope I use is cheap soft magician's rope, £25/100m. Comfy, wide, flexible, secure with good bite, and cheap enough to not matter if it needs to be cut. I wouldn't use it to bear loads in suspension(!) but it does very well to hold someone securely on a bed or other horizontal surface.

SM 101 & Erotic Bondage by Jay Wiseman are both good for this subject.
Friday, August 8th, 2008 12:10 pm (UTC)
I like your use of terminology.

Er, thanks! :-) I think all the terms I use are standard, for some value of "standard".

Safety is covered by rope & knots with a good bite that will grip to itself. 4 or 5 round turns before a cinch & then a reef is enough to stop tightening and is pretty comfy, but takes a good while to tie.

Makes sense.

My main use-case for the lark's foot is as an attachment point for climbers to the belay anchor. Lark's foot a sling through the abseil loop on the front of your harness, then clip it into the anchor setup with a screwgate karabiner. Interesting the different uses people have for things, isn't it? :-)

The rope I use is cheap soft magician's rope, £25/100m.
Oh yeah, I know the stuff. Yes, that holds knots beautifully. Much nicer than [livejournal.com profile] hildabeast's B&Q polyprop rope...

Thanks a lot!