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This has been an unexpectedly good week on the climbing front. On Tuesday, I got up my first F7a route, and today I climbed my first V4 boulder problem.
Caveats: both were in the indoor wall rather than on real rock; the F7a was on top-rope, and I needed one rest on the rope; the F7a was a pinchy, balancy slab, which, while not my absolute favourite type of climbing¹, is pretty close to my favourite; and the boulder problem was solved by spotting a crazy but low-energy sequence² rather than by executing burly or elegant conventional moves. And I went back on Friday intending to do the F7a cleanly, but failed to get beyond the crux.
But still, a kill's a kill, and it's nice to be making progress. Hopefully if I keep training then I'll be able to drop the caveats, and after a while sending F7a or V4 will cease to be an exceptional event.
No progress on the winter climbing, alas: the weather in the Highlands has been minging for the last couple of weekends. Next Sunday, hopefully.
¹ That would be crimpy, balancy slabs.
² For those of you following along at home, that sequence was (from a sit start): left foot up; underclings for left and right hands; stand up on left foot and reach left hand up high; bring right hand up to the hold on top of the big volume; waist jam; match left elbow to right hand; rotate body 135 degrees right; head bar; rotate body 55 degrees further right; facing outwards, move left hand to where your left elbow is; smear both feet off the top of the volume below your left hand; sit on the hold where your left hand is; leisurely reach both hands up to touch the final hold, ignoring the tempting but unnecessary sloper near the ceiling on your right. I suspect this was not a sequence the routesetter had in mind.
Caveats: both were in the indoor wall rather than on real rock; the F7a was on top-rope, and I needed one rest on the rope; the F7a was a pinchy, balancy slab, which, while not my absolute favourite type of climbing¹, is pretty close to my favourite; and the boulder problem was solved by spotting a crazy but low-energy sequence² rather than by executing burly or elegant conventional moves. And I went back on Friday intending to do the F7a cleanly, but failed to get beyond the crux.
But still, a kill's a kill, and it's nice to be making progress. Hopefully if I keep training then I'll be able to drop the caveats, and after a while sending F7a or V4 will cease to be an exceptional event.
No progress on the winter climbing, alas: the weather in the Highlands has been minging for the last couple of weekends. Next Sunday, hopefully.
¹ That would be crimpy, balancy slabs.
² For those of you following along at home, that sequence was (from a sit start): left foot up; underclings for left and right hands; stand up on left foot and reach left hand up high; bring right hand up to the hold on top of the big volume; waist jam; match left elbow to right hand; rotate body 135 degrees right; head bar; rotate body 55 degrees further right; facing outwards, move left hand to where your left elbow is; smear both feet off the top of the volume below your left hand; sit on the hold where your left hand is; leisurely reach both hands up to touch the final hold, ignoring the tempting but unnecessary sloper near the ceiling on your right. I suspect this was not a sequence the routesetter had in mind.
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How's your climbing going these days?
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